Almeida is an extremely well preserved border city. Its citadel is a typical example of a polygonal 12 pointed star fortress in Vauban style. It witnessed the fights between the Castilians and the Portuguese. In 1810, during the French invasion, an explosion in the gunpowder magazine destroyed the keep and opened wide breaches in the walls the casemates can be visited, as well as the soldiers' underground quarters, and an armory with items recalling Almeida's military past.
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Monsanto is an authentic Portuguese village, built between gigantic boulders, to the south-east of the Serra. It is perched on the side of the mountain and its houses are squeezed between the granite rocks. The appearance of this fortified village has not changed in centuries, it has kept its tiny narrow streets carved in the rock.
Some of the granite houses have Manueline doorways. From the ruins of the castle of
the former lusitanian fortified settlement the magnificent view extends as far as the Serra da Estrela. Next to the castle a ruined Romanesque chapel adds to the hauntingly beautiful atmosphere of the place. In 1938 Monsanto was voted "the most Portuguese village in Portugal" by national contest., and since then the building restrictions have succeeded in keeping the village as a live museum. Monsanto is not easily reached by public transport, but the unique atmosphere and the panoramic views are well worth a trip by car from the neighbouring towns or the serra da Estrela.
Belmonte is a small city 600 m in altitude, dominated by the 13th century castle that was transformed into a fortified mansion by the family of navigator Pedro Álvares Cabral, the gentleman who discovered Brazil in the year 1500. Only the keep remains today and a few parts of the walls. Church S. Tiago next to it, shelters the tombs of the navigator and his family, whilst a statue of Pedro Álvares Cabral stands in the heart of the town. In the parochial church, which dates back to 1940, one can see a statue of the Virgin, Nª Sra da Esperança, which according to legend followed the navigator in his voyages, as well as a replica of the cross that was used during the celebration of the first mass in Brazil (the original cross is kept in the cathedral of Braga).
Adjacent to the castle are the narrow alleys of the old Jewish quarter. The town of Belmonte is indeed very much involved in the history of Portuguese Judaism, and it still shelters today the largest Jewish community in the country, whose origins go back to at least the 13th century. The remote geographic situation was the reason why the Jews took refuge in Belmonte after the expulsion laws of 1497, where they continued to secretly practise their religion. These marranos Jews have perpetuated their traditions along the centuries. The present synagogue was inaugurated in 1997. There are other cities in the same area that are also homes to large Jewish communities, like for example Covilhã, Guarda, Gouveia, Linhares da Beira, Celorico, Trancoso, Pinhel and Penamacor. In Belmonte the Jewish Museum explains the history of this centuries old community.
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Pedro Álvares Cabral |
Belmonte - Synagogue |
There is also the Museum of olive oil, which shows the production techniques and also the importance of this product in the local economy.
4 km north-east of the town stands a curious Roman square tower, 3 stories high, Centum Cellas, about which the archeologists still wonder what it could be used for, (watch tower, part of a villa, or even a temple ?).
Approximatey 1 km from the centre of the town a former monastery has been renovated and made into a pousada. The original architecture has been preserved in a very stylish modern design, and instead of numbers the rooms have been given names of the monks who used to live on the premises. You should go there for a drink or coffee, in order to enjoy the fantastic views over the slopes of the Serra da Esperança.
Viseu is the leading city of an important industrial ans agricultural region, and the capital of Dão, the vine growing area well known for the quality of its red and white wines. Viseu is still today a major communication crossroads.
Among the monuments to visit we recommend Sé, the Cathedral, which was built around the 13th century, and remodeled in the 16th and 17th centuries, one of the most important cathedrals Portugal. The magnificent vault dates back from the 16th century.
The church Igreja dos Terceiros de São Francisco has an interesting gilded interior, whereas Igreja da Miseriacórdia has a well balanced beautiful Rococo façade.
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Viseu - Sé |
Viseu - Igreja da Misericórdia |
The town seems to be dominated by the Grão Vasco Museum, established in the former Bishop's Palace. The museum shelters a permanent exhibition of paintings by Vasco Fernandes, from his artistic period 1475 - 1540. This art school is internationally acclaimed for its painting of nature and of minute details. The treatment of light and shade displayed by this painter shows that he was well travelled and had been influenced by the Flemish School of the time. Also on display you will find religious art pieces and other paintings by Vasco Fernandes, and paintings by his contemporary rival, painter Gaspar Vaz. Some major works of the Portuguese art from the 19th and 20th centuries, namely by Columbano, and Bordalo Pinheiro are part of the exhibitions of the museum.
The town of Viseu is the birthplace of Augusto Hilário, the original composer of Fado as it is sung in the fashion of Coimbra.
